I don’t tend to come up against many quicker cars on the road, mainly due to me not doing many miles in the Evo. One car I did come across though recently that was quicker was a new Audi TT RS; £40,000 worth of Audi, hammering down the local Dual Carriageway at speed. At around 340bhp from it’s 5 pot turbo engine the Audi was pulling away on the straights and looked fantastic, much more muscular than the old version renowned for those who have a strange fondness for hair products. I expect these TTs with a remap are serious weapons. However it does show how good value for money these 13 year old Evos are – currently worth around 15% of the cost of a new TT RS and almost identical performance. These things really are performance bargains.
Falken FK452 tyre review
Once the new Falkens FK452swere bedded in, I took the Evo out for a spin in nice warm dry weather. The grip was astounding. As anyone that has driven a car with AYC knows, i chucked the car into corners, kept my foot planted and you could feel the car shuffling power around. Roundabout after roundabout was dispatched no problem at all. Oversteer is available with a lift on entry and easily quelled with application of power. Straight line braking is superb with no hint of the ABS intervening. I’ve used quite a few performance tyres in the past and the Falken’s are right up with the best of them which is very surprising given how reasonably priced they are. I’ve since had chance to put them to the test in wet weather and am very impressed. I never really drive a car hard on the road in the wet so i am unlikely to test high speed cornering performance as such. However i always buy performance tyres. The Falkens are by no means infallible but I can accelerate at full throttle in the first 3 gears with no wheel spin. Equally, grip during straight line braking is very good. Lateral grip is equally impressive, understeer only exhibiting itself if the corner entry speed is far too high. They make you feel confident that should an unobservant driver pull out or a child run out in front of you, you have the right tyres to help you stop in time. I have some notoriously slippy mini roundabouts near me, that test any tyre. As expected the Evo does understeer and oversteer here. However having a car in front of me do a 180 spin at 20mph a few weeks ago and sit facing me waving, I’m convinced the surface has some fundamental problem or possibly a lingering diesel spill so I can’t levy any blame at the Falkens. One very noticable thing of 4WD is the complete absence of wheelspin out of wet junctions and roundabouts. It’s great to be able to pull out of junctions in the wet with no wheelspin whatsoever, even pulling out at speed. The difference between my 2WD daily hack and the 4WD in the Lancer is astounding in this weather. Even under full boost in 2nd and 3rd, theres no loss of traction. Of course 4 Wheel Drive helps with any tyre, but for a summer tyre, the Falken’s really are impressive.
Tommi Makinen
Tommi Makinen is a name familiar to many Evo owners. The Finnish former rally driver won the world Rally Champion four consecutive times driving the Ralliart Lancer Evo in the late nineties and has totted up 24 WRC wins in all. To celebrate his success, Mitsubishi introduced the Evo VI Tommi Makinen edition, a highly sought after model which still commands a premium today, especially in red. Power output remained the same as the standard model however there were several changes that added up to make it a very desirable model. Changes to the normal Evo VI included:
- A titanium turbocharger with better low and mid range torque
- Improved exhaust system
- Front upper strut brace
- Lowered suspension
- Quicker steering rack
- Cosmetically the the front bumper and alloy wheels were changed. WRC decals were also optional extras
To see why Tommi is held in such regard in Mitsubishi circles, check out the video here, a fantastic four part video on WRC Greatest Drivers detailing his start in rallying, through to winning the World Championship.
Also don’t go before checking out the fun video of him driving racing driver Tiff Needell at speed in a WRC Evo VII rally car as Tiff struggles to remain composed and talk to the camera:
Comedy fuel gauge!
Not long after I bought the car I soon realised that the fuel gauge was more of a guide than a useful gauge! It’s quite amusing that the first 1/4 of Super Unleaded gets munched in around 80miles, yet the remaining 3/4 tank also gives 80 miles! You have to laugh at the Japanese complete ignorance of fuel economy when they created the likes of these 90s Evo/Skyline/Supra/200SX turbo nutter cars. It’s like they had discovered how to make cars that would embaress expensive exotica and all the budget went on turbo and handling development, and the poor the guy in the fuel economy department got made redundant. I like that philosophy of making cars. So much nowadays is aimed at maximum fuel economy that fun and true performance are secondary considerations. Unfortunately with the state of the economy and price of oil, I don’t see that changing anytime soon.
The costs of running an Evo
The main question that comes up when people chat about Evo’s are “How much does it cost to run?”
If you’re used to Fiat Punto levels of costs then you may be in for a shock. However if you compare the costs against running costs for cars with similar levels of performance, running an Evo is relatively cheap.
The main regular expenses are fuel and servicing. However as cars are getting older you may have turbo, actuator, gearbox, differential issues and it’s critical to find one that’s been correctly serviced. Sometimes the Active Yaw Control pumps can fail. These will set you back around £250 second hand. Beware of heavily tuned examples. Standard Evo V engines are known to handle 1.5 bar boost reliably, so beware of standard cars boosting more than this on standard engine internals.
Since the versions 5s have suffered the majority of depreciation already, what you save on purchase price compared with another car you can use on fuel and maintenance.
e.g. If you buy an Evo V for £5500 and spend £1500 a year keeping it running this can work out the same or less as buying a car that will depreciate by thousands of pounds every year. Insurance will be almost unattainable for those under 25 unless you have large amounts of No Claims Bonus, live in a good area and the car is garaged. For those in their late twenties, you’re looking at a minimum of £700 to insure the car, but often nearer £1000 a year. Obviously insurance costs come into play but as a petrolhead there is no question for me. It’s a performance bargain and such a capable car it raises a smile every single time i drive it.
Regular oil changes are a must every 4500 miles or 6 months. This is an easy job to do yourself, but make sure you use a high quality oil like Fuchs Silkolene for example.
Active Yaw Control fluid changes are every 9000 miles or every year. Differential and transfer box oils should also be changed every year. This will be around £150 at an independent garage.
Evos go through consumables very quickly, expect to replace brake pads, discs and tyres regularly. However brake changes are easy to do yourself if youre handy with a spanner so you can save a few hundred on labour costs. Brake Pads vary from £100 to £300 depending on the specification. Brake Discs cost from £90 a pair upwards. Tyres are around £80 a corner from the likes of mytyres but will wear quickly – in as little as 6000 miles depending on use.
As you can see Evos take some looking after, but go into ownership with your eyes wide open and your car will reward you with a fantastic ownership experience and many happy motoring miles.
First oil change
If you own an Evo, you’ll soon discover that oil changes need carrying out about as often as you change your pants! With a 4,500 mile or 6 month schedule for an oil change, you need to keep on top of servicing to ensure your car is running on clean uncontaminated oil. Lets not forget the cars are used hard and need looking after so forget your Fiat Punto 20,000 mile interval and dig deep for quality oil reguarly. Luckily doing this yourself is very easy and you can save money by doing it yourself in less than an hours work. The first oil service in my care was due on the Evo so I used the same oil as the last owner as well as many tuners and professional on the MLR. I bought some Silkolene 10W50 racing oil and some Mitsubishi oil filters
(part no. MZ690116). which came with sump plug washers (part no. MD050317)
Changing the oil is very easy:
- Warm up the car with a 5 minute drive so the oil is warm but not too hot and will flow out easily.
- Jack up the car and secure it on axle stands so it is safe and secure to work under.
- Place an oil catch tray under the sump plug and undo it with a 19mm socket. Be careful not to burn yourself if the oil is hot.
- The oil filter is located in what looks like a vunerable place directly in front of the sump hanging vertically down. I wonder if this was moved in the rally cars as it does seem vunerable to rocks and objects that could easily hit it. Undo this with some oil filter pliers and drain into the drip tray.
- Run some fresh oil round the new filter seal and screw back on, being careful not to overtighten.
- When all the oil oil has drained out, place the new sump plug washer on the bolt and tighten up, again careful not to overtighten and strip the thread.
- Lower the car back down on the ground and fill with the new oil, regularly checking the dipstick as you do so. Do not overfill the engine!
- When the dipstick level is ok, start the car and check for any leaks underneath.
- Check the dipstick once more and top up if necessary.
- Drain the catch tray into the oil can and dispose of at your local recycling centre.
Job done for another 4500 miles!
Evo mud flaps
My once proud Mitsubishi is now mudflapless on one corner after I stupidly reversed up a kerb, which dragged the mudflap under the car and ripped it off. So in keeping with the red calipers and red Mitsubishi rear lights and badges I thought it would be good to get some red Mitsubishi Lancer Register mudflaps to replace the black Ralliart ones that were on before. These are £76.60 from the MLR club shop and were easy to fit, especially given the fixings were there from the last set anyway. Of course these pick up dirt easily and are a bit painful to clean with the wheels on the car but I think they look fantastic.
How much fuel does an Evo use?
One of the most frequently asked questions about buying a performance car like an Evo is what the fuel economy is like and what mileage you get to a full tank of petrol. Of course it depends on your budget, but lets be clear an Evo is not a cheap car to run compared to say, an average hatchback. However, when you compare the Mitsubishi with cars of a similar performance, it is, in fact a bargain. My particular car achieves 175 miles to a full tank of Super Unleaded petrol – about 45 litres. This works out at around 18mpg. Granted with Super Unleaded petrol currently hovering at over 140p per litre, it’s not exactly cheap. You could achieve more than this on the motorway but who wants to? This car is all about attacking B roads and riding the wave of boost all the way up to 7000+rpm. I’ve noticed the standard Mitsubishi ECU map runs quite rich, and even off boost with light use of the throttle, fuel economy does not improve much. Drive it like you stole it, or use the car on track and you could even creep down to single figure MPG. However you can be sure that the smile on your face will more than make up for the pain at the pumps
Loose manifold bolts
I was on my way to work when I heard a loud clattering and a slight loss of power. I pulled over to have a look under the bonnet, and noticed how loud the engine was when idling, it sounded like the exhaust or manifold was blowing. I could feel exhaust gas eminating from somewhere in the engine bay. It turns out one of the bolts fitted to the exhaust manifold had come undone and vacated the premises. Figuring I wouldn’t be doing too much damage, I continued to work and back home and replaced the bolt. Unfortunately the cream coloured rocker cover is now discoloured from exhaust gases, so I need to clean that up at some point.
Edit, it happened again! This time the other bolt. I got the garage to replace it and seem to have gained another 0.3bar boost. It seems exhaust gas must have been escaping slightly from the loose manifold bolts. Now the bolts are tight, it is boosting correctly and the fuelling is still fine under load. She feels verrry nippy now. Free power!
Cold weather testing!
The cold was unbelievable this morning. After I eventually got the driver’s door open using some luke warm water around the seal I put the key in the ignition and the dash reported -15 degrees! I’m suprised the small race battery lasted the night but it did, and the Evo fires into life albeit fairly sluggishly. The car easily took 20 minutes to warm up and de-
ice, before it even turned a wheel. I set off to work slowly warming up the diff and ‘box oils and noticed the car chucking out what looked like a lot of oily exhaust gas. I pulled over thinking great, piston rings or stem seals have bitten the dust, but the car seemed ok and the exhaust gas cleaned up as I carried on.
I noticed when I got home that the oil catch tank was so full it had expanded through the filter, so my guess is a small amount of oil was being burnt as the catch tank was full. I emptied this and all was well. Moral of the story, keep on top of that Oil catch tank!

